When I first lived in Saigon
for a year in 1971-72, I was struck by the numerous excellent modernist houses
I saw while walking the streets of Saigon. I wondered at the time why there would be so much of this
kind of architecture in Vietnam, but I did not have the time or capability to
find out.
The above photo was taken in 1972.
I had graduated in 1970 with
a professional degree in Architecture from a rural American university, but I
had not yet traveled through much of the USA and never until 1971 to Asia or
Europe. Courtesy of the U.S. Navy,
I came to Vietnam to manage construction contracts with Vietnamese construction
contractors.
There weren’t many modernist
houses to see in America at that time (and still aren’t). What I had seen in architecture
magazines were isolated examples by architects experimenting with rich clients
on country estates. I make a
distinction here between modernist architecture and the more ubiquitous bland
international style common to cities all over the world.
Later in life, I traveled to
cities where modernist architecture was more numerous, particularly Miami,
Florida, and Mexico City. These
particular cities had attracted architects who had been able to produce modernist
houses and buildings on a large scale.
By comparison, San Francisco, where I lived and practiced architecture
for 32 years, is a very conservative city where traditional or bland
international style forms of architecture vastly outnumber modernist
experiments. But that is changing
now over the past five years with young architects following the lead of the
very creative internet community in providing intellectual content and
leadership.
So it is very interesting to
me that modernist architecture was already flourishing in Vietnam in the 1960s
and early 70s. Upon my return to
Ho Chi Minh City to live three years ago, I have been thrilled to see how much
modernist architecture has evolved over the years in Vietnam, and the hundreds
of excellent examples there are to see and study.
However, almost all of these
examples have been houses rather than larger buildings. Until recently, it seems to me that
most larger buildings have been the bland international style imported from
Singapore and Australia. But I am
now seeing Vietnamese architects break away from these models to translate
Vietnamese modernist architecture to larger buildings.
What distinguishes
Vietnamese modernist architecture from the examples I now see in western cities
are a much greater use of colors, textures, and forms. Modernist architecture over the years
in western countries has been primarily minimalist. Vietnamese modernist architects seem free to experiment with
lines, planes, and volumes, along with colors and textures in a variety of
materials.
I am also gratified to find
that excellent modernist architecture is not confined to Ho Chi Minh City. I have not traveled extensively north
of Danang, but I could not fine many examples of modernist architecture in Hue
or Hanoi. Some of the best
examples I have found are in rural villages of southern Vietnam – from Quang
Nam Province on down through Binh Dinh Province to Binh Thuan Province and the
provinces circling Ho Chi Minh City.
While these examples are essentially modernist, they have regional
variations that I find fascinating.
In Quang Nam and Binh Dinh, the basic house forms, especially the roof
forms, are traditional Vietnamese in origin with tile gabled roofs. But the facades are very modernist in
their use of bright colors and patterns of lines in the plaster surfaces.
In the provinces around Ho Chi Minh
City, architectonic elements such as finials are added to the eave or cornice
lines, and the roofs are often flat.
Some might say that
Vietnamese architects have only copied what they see in global architecture
magazines, but I read those magazines too, and fail to find the sources for
what I feel is a much more inventive architecture in southern Vietnam.
I think that modernist
architecture fits the culture of Vietnam very well; so Vietnamese architects
have evolved a uniquely Vietnamese style of modernism. The old thatched roof houses were very
simple in form and therefore easily allowed experimentation with modernist
principles. The same is true of
the rural wood houses in the central highlands.
Unlike Cambodia and Thailand
where temple architecture has provided highly-stylistic and iconic elements to
be tacked onto houses, the Vietnamese culture has managed to keep temple forms
(which are usually Chinese in origin) on the temple grounds. I also think it is likely that the
Vietnamese adaption of modernism was a reaction to the French colonial styles
of architecture, which are not complimentary to the Vietnamese culture. I am not a scholar of architectural
history, and certainly not of Vietnamese culture, so I would encourage feedback
from readers regarding the unproven and unresearched assertions I have been
throwing out here.
Design is a series of
intelligent choices, ranging from the overall form down to decisions about the
trim around windows, or how a wall plane meets the ground. I am guessing that trained architects
did not design most of the modernist houses in the rural areas. It is likely that home-owners and
construction contractors worked together to make intelligent decisions based
upon pioneering modernist houses in their area, and added some experimentation
on their own.
It seems to me that a
population must have an innate sense of good design in order to produce the
consistently good examples that have been produced throughout southern Vietnam
over the years. I am constantly
enriched as I travel around Vietnam and walk through the cities. I believe that Vietnamese should be
very proud of the Vietnamese brand of modernist architecture that they have
evolved on their own terms.